Final stop for the day is a hotel in Lao Bao. Tho and Huieu will stay with Tho's cousin. I walk the streets alone that night amid barking dogs; glad I have my flashlight. One building has a tape playing music to loudly. I go there for dinner and order pho bo and a beer only to learn that pho bo, or any kind of pho is not to be had at any price. Good thing I like beer.

Returning to my hotel, I hear Tho calling my name. We go together through the back of a house to fins a quiet but active restaurant. pho bo wins again, plus, what the heck, as long as I'm here, I’ll have another beer.

 

Feb 24, 2004

We visit Lao Bao border after breakfast of, you can guess, pho bo. Bread is not available because eggs are not served here and, you could have guessed, bread for breakfast is only served with eggs as any/everyone knows. Dah!

Wisdom: Tho is giving me a lecture on the G7 and its members, including (G7+) Russia. He covers topics I can only spell!

Outside most homes in this area are small, elevated temples about 2-foot cubed. These signify the mourning of known individuals, couples or families. If there is only a 2-foot square, open to the world, that signifies it is open to visits by any/all lost spirits - Tho says ghosts.

Eating

Fifty years ago, 95% of diet was rice; most other goods were exported to get hard currency for the government. Today, about 50% of diet is rice; the rest is meat, fish, pork, duck, chicken, seafood, string beans, avocados, taro, maize, tapioca and bananas.